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January 17, 2005

To the End of the World... and coming back!

How quickly things change. Only ten short days ago, Dave and I were sweating profusely in the humid, sub-tropical heat of eastern Bolivia. Roadblocks, health problems, and a general state of apathy were slowly taking a toll on our physical and mental well-being. The need to make some changes in our schedule and lifestyle had become glaringly apparent. By our own good luck, or perhaps divine intervention, we found ourselves with an express ticket straight to the end of the world...

Cold, barren, and windswept, the land of Tierra del Fuego really is the end of the world. With the icy continent of Antarctica only several hundred miles away, this is the definition of isolation. Active glaciers and steep, rocky mountain ranges create nearly impassable barriers by land. At sea, the frigid waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans combine to create a turbulant, stormy nightmare for any sailor hoping to navigate the southernmost coast in the world. Besides an incredible variety of birds and aquatic species, very few other signs of life exist in this desolate landscape. It's no wonder that as Magellan passed through in the early 1500's, he and his fellow explorers took little interest in this newly-discovered land. And it should come as no surprise that Dave and I found it quite difficult to get there as well.

Thus far on our trip through Latin America, bus transportation has been a fairly reliable and consistent method of getting from place to place. Without too much difficulty, we have been able to show up at a bus station and buy tickets for our desired destination, often on the next bus out. All of that changed once we crossed into Argentina. After waiting in line for nearly six hours at the Argentinian immigration office, we finally made it through and hurried to the bus station to buy our tickets. At this point, we were still planning to travel south to Mendoza, where we would cross into Chile and continue down to the city of Puerto Montt and the surrounding Lake District. Arriving at the bus station, we were quite surprised to find that the next available tickets to Mendoza were not for nearly a week! This time of year is summer in the southern hemisphere, and Argentinians love to spend it traveling. Clearly, this last minute discovery had the potential to throw a decent-sized wrench into our already tight schedule for the remainder of South America.

With our options severely limited, we caught the next bus south, knowing that it would only take us as far as Tucuman. A much larger city, we hoped, would provide us with a few more options for getting further south to Mendoza. We arrived in Tucuman at 3am the following morning, both feeling quite tired and my nasty worm problem keeping me constantly within close range of a bathroom. As we waited for the sun to come up and the ticket booths to open, we caught some sporadic snoozes on the hard chairs of the bus terminal, hugging our packs and dreaming of a quick way out of town.

As the ticket booths began to open, our fate became clear. There was still nothing available to Mendoza, or anywhere further south in Patagonia, for at least a week. Our one possibility, it seemed, was to jump to the next town south, Cordoba, and once again review our possibilities from there. We found a bus leaving that night for Cordoba, which we quickly bought tickets for and pondered how we might spend the next 14 hours in the bus terminal. Fortunately, downtown Tucuman was an easy walk, so we did a bit of exploring throughout the day. We attended an early-morning mass, had a leisurely breakfast, and took advantage of the best internet rates we've encountred the entire trip - 30 cents an hour.

As I checked my email, I came across an old email from a Brasilian friend of mine, detailing his plans to spend several weeks in Cordoba with a few friends. I had met Lynarcos about five years ago, while a member of a YES team to central Brasil. Our team spent a weekend at an "Encontro" retreat in Goiania, where Lynarcos happened to also be attending. We had a number of good conversations throughout the conference, and have since been keeping in contact via email, never quite sure if we would have the opportunity to meet again. On a whim, I decided to quickly send him an email, hoping that he might check sometime that day and we might be able to arrange a time to get together. Given that I would need a response within the next few hours, I was quite skeptical.

Before our bus pulled out that evening, I checked email again. Sure enough, Lynarcos had responded with the address he was staying at, and invited Dave and I to stop by when we arrived in Cordoba. By this point, we had spent three straight nights on buses, and figured that it might be time to give our bodies a little break. Despite taking some powerful worm meds, I was still experiencing some stomach problems, and Dave was developing a growing pain in his abdomen that didn't seem to go away. It was time for a break.

We ended up staying the next two days in Cordoba with Lynarcos and two of his friends, Julio and Douglas. Much of our time was spent around the table, sipping warm mate and speaking a strange mixture of Spanish and Portuguese. A real fun-loving and hospitable bunch, Lynarcos and his friends also took us on several tours of the historic parts of the city. And when it came time to rest, they even gave up their own beds for us to sleep in. This time of hanging out with an old friend, making some new ones, and resting our tired bodies proved to be exactly what was needed. I left Cordoba with my stomach back in order, and my spirits refreshed from this unexpected encounter.

While in Cordoba, we had again been checking with a variety of bus companies with routes going south, and nothing seemed to be working out. Our only option, it seemed, was to head for Buenos Aires and try to find something there. So that's exactly what we did. We arrived in Argentina's capital city the following morning, not sure exactly how long we might be stranded there. With our ideals of traveling by land to the southern cone quickly fading with each passing day, we were forced to consider other ways of getting to southern Patagonia. Although a bit pricier, it was becoming clear that if we truely wanted to get all the way to Tierra del Fuego, we would have to fly.

Before going to the airport, however, we decided to take advantage of the higher quality of healthcare present in this large city. Dave's discomfort in his side still hadn't gone away after several weeks, and we were beginning to get a little concerned. So for the first time on this trip, we made our way to a hospital to get him checked out. Arriving at the hospital, we found hundreds of people utilizing their country's free health care system. Long lines and crowded waiting rooms were scattered everywhere throughout the building. Just as our discouragement began to build, an English-speaking gentleman who had been waiting for two days approached us and asked if he could help with anything. After explaining our situation, he led us down to the ER, helped us fill out some paperwork (even allowing us to use his home address), and convinced the receptionist to allow us to see a doctor. Within minutes, Dave got a brief examination by an ER tech, who assured us that nothing serious was wrong, and gave him a prescription in case of further pain. Feeling a bit better and anxious to continue on, we made our way to the airport and booked seats on the afternoon flight to Ushuaia.

As the southernmost city in the world, Ushuaia is a landing point for all sorts of people. Since it is an important port city, many Argentinians come here to work in the booming fishing industry or to help out at the docks. Others have established very successful sheep farms on the bleak, grassy plateaus outside of town. And of course there are the tourists. Some spending thousands on a cruise to Antartica, others (like ourselves) looking to explore a few of the incredible national parks and find rest and inspiration in the beauty of untouched nature.

Arriving with us on the flight from Buenos Aires were two fellow travelers with similar goals for their time in the southern part of the continent. As we picked up our bags off the belt, we struck up a conversation and realized that we were all planning a similar route through Tierra del Fuego and southern Chile. Julia, a fellow American, is getting ready to begin a semester studying Spanish at a university in Buenos Aires. Originally planning to spend a few weeks in Brasil before the start of the semester, she ended up making a quick change of plans after realizing that she didn't have the necessary visas to enter the country. Duncan, a Brit who has spent the last several years working in finance throughout southeast Asia, is getting ready to begin his own trip around the world. The course of his year-long journey will take him from Sydney to London, completely overland. He is using the next few weeks to travel for a bit in South America before meeting his friend in Australia to start the big adventure. After a brief conversation, we all decided to split the cost of a taxi into town, and ended up staying at the same hostel on the edge of town.

As cooking up a sucessful stir-fry together that night at the hostel, we decided that we enjoyed each other's company enough to warrant traveling together for the next few weeks. The following day, after buying a $12 tent, some extra gear, and a decent amount of food, the four of us set out for Tierra del Fuego park, located along the Beagle Channel near the Chilean border. Our first day was spent hiking around secluded bogs, through forests of overgrown beech trees, and along the frigid waters of the channel. The company was great and the scenery fantastic. As we made camp that night, we noted the seeming overabundance of rabbits that dominated the park, and considered the feasability of cooking up a hot rabbit stew. However, catching the speedy critters proved to be much more difficult than anticipated, and so we settled for our prepackaged rice dinner. As the sun finally crept below the horizon soon after 11pm, we made our way to our warm sleeping bags and crashed for the night.

The next day, despite a cold drizzle and bone-chilling winds, we climbed up the Cerro Guanaco, a 1000m peak dominating the center of the park. It was a beautiful, albeit challenging hike to the summit. Arriving at the top in early afternoon, our view was largely obscured by the driving snow and heavy clouds at the top. But the experience was clearly worth it... admist those kinds of weather conditions, one could very easily be convinced that they were somewhere in Antartica, trekking through the rocky and snowy solitude. The cool air and splendid scenery provided the rejuvination that we needed. Returning to our hostel that night, we cooked up another delicious feast and collapsed happily into our warm dormitory beds.

Following our few days in Ushuaia, our next stop was the Chilean city of Punto Arenas, located along the choppy waters of the Magellan Strait. Our time here was more of a stopover on our way north to the small town of Puerto Natales. We did have time, however, to visit one of the main attractions in Puno Arenas, the Seno Otway pinguinera. You guessed it... a colony of over 10,000 Magallanes penguins living on the rocks and grassland along the coast. Since penguins always return to their place of birth to raise their own young, this particular pinguinera has been in operation for decades with no signs of stopping, given that the penguins' habitat is preserved. We were fortunate to visit during the time of year when the young are just beginning to lose their baby feathers and learn to swim. As you can imagine, this proved to be quite an amusing sight.

This morning we took a bus from Punto Arenas north to Puerto Natales, the jumping off point for excursions into Torres del Paine. Known as probably the most popular backpacking destination in all of South America, we plan to do a five day backpacking trip into the heart of the park, hopefully avoiding some of the most well-worn and popular routes. Duncan and Julia will also be joining us for Torres del Paine, after which we all plan to spend a few days in Los Glaciares park across the border in Argentina. From there, Dave and I will return to Buenos Aires, before crossing into Uruguay and flying out of Montevideo on February 1st.

Posted by Eric at January 17, 2005 05:29 PM



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