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February 11, 2005

Return to the Middle East

We arrived at the Montevideo airport and stepped up to check our bags for the upcoming 20 hour transatlantic flight. It was time to fly to the Middle East, the first major transition of our journey into an entirely different culture. We handed our tickets to the young lady working behind the desk, and after she looked at them a few times and punched a few things into the computer, she asked us politely, "Excuse me, but where is Amman?" I guess there are not too many travelers that run the Uruguay to Jordan route. We laughed to ourselves and informed her that Amman is the capital of Jordan, and once again reminded of how unique our journey really is...

After a stopover in Brazil and Madrid, we switched to a plane flown by Royal Jordanian Airlines. The Arabic script immediately brought back memories of the last time Eric and I had traveled to this part of the world with EMU's cross-cultural program in the fall of 2002. We were excited to return and continue learning in an area that had left such an impact on our lives. This was the first time on our trip where we were returning to a place we had been before, and it some ways it almost felt like home.

On the plane I was sitting next to Mazen, a Jordanian living in Paraguay who was returning to his home country for the first time in 18 years. We spent a large portion of the flight talking, learning about each others' families and lives. His mother had recently become ill, and he was coming to fly her to South America to see her grandchildren for the first and only time, hoping that he would be granted a visa for her visit. He also helped me with a few important Arabic phrases that we thought might come in handy during our stay in Amman.

We had another brief stopover in Vienna and I started talking to an American on board to pass the waiting time. Curious what might bring other Americans to the Middle East, I asked him a little more about his travel plans. I learned that the man was heading to Baghdad, where he worked with the contracted reconstruction of hospitals that were destroyed during the Iraq war. He was coming off of two weeks of vacation in Madrid with his wife and ready for another 13 in Iraq. When I asked how the progress was coming along, he said, "Honestly, it's pretty challenging. It's tough to get the locals to work as we want them to. The way we build hospitals is by sending them out with blueprints and digital cameras, and then telling them to come back with reports and photos about what they've done. Then we look at their work and tell them if it's going well or not. It's sort of like building hospitals by remote control." Before the plane took off again, he told me to keep my head low as Americans were not too welcome in this part of the world.

In Amman we stayed with the extended family of my uncle Basil, who was born in Jordan but now lives in North Carolina with my aunt Diane. We were excited to meet the Qaqish family and to return to a culture that had left so many previous positive memories on our lives. After arriving at the home of Basim, my uncle's brother and meeting the entire extended family, we were welcomed with the Arab hospitality of a wonderful dinner and hot tea afterwards. Tired from the 20 hour flight, we were able to fall asleep in spite of the jet lag effects.

The next day began with a delicious breakfast of pita bread, falafel and hummus, again, followed by hot tea. In the late morning, Basim and his son Afwad took us to the citadel in the old part of Amman, which remains as the ruins sitting on top of a hill. We went through a museum containing very old artifacts, some dating back over 5000 years that had been discovered from Jericho and Qumran, on the other side of the Dead Sea. We also visited the old Roman Theater, hiking up the stairs with Afwad to get a better view of the city. We returned back to their house for another abundance of delicious Arab food, still adjusting to the new culture and time zone.

Because of the cold and rain outside, most of the next few days were spent with the family in their houses, watching Arab TV and sipping hot tea. I'm still not sure which is a higher number; the hours spent watching television or the number of cups of tea we drank. During our stay in Amman we were very blessed once again by Arab hospitality, and it was a good experience getting to know some of my extended family members. And I also think we also ate more per day than any other time on the trip thus far...

The plan was to cross into Israel at the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge early in the morning in order to avoid the often lengthy process and start working at our preparations for hiking the Israel National Trail, which we hoped to begin in a few days. We arrived at the Jordanian customs building before it officially opened, and a few of the workers went out of their way to go get us a cup of hot tea while we were waiting. Our transition out of Jordan went very smoothly, yet slowly, and we spent another hour waiting for the bus to cross the Jordan River and get us to the other side of the bridge, pausing at each of the three security checkpoints.

This bridge connects Jordan to the West Bank and is used mainly by Palestinians (and travelers). As the bus waited for its turn to approach the Israeli customs building, we watched a young soldier about our age standing off to the side with his gun ready for action as each bus unloaded. After the passengers exited the bus and went inside the building, he would pause, lower the gun, and wait for the next one.

We went through multiple security checks inside of the building and managed to successfully convince the customs officials to let us into the country without putting an Israeli stamp in our passports. (We are planning to travel to Lebanon in a few months, and if you have evidence in your passport of a visit to Israel, you will be denied entrance at the border.) A little while later, we were in a Sherut climbing up out of the lowest valley on earth, up over 3000' in elevation to the city of Jerusalem.

It's nice to show up in a city and to already know your way around. We first walked from the Old City walls down Jaffa Street to an outdoor gear store to buy a new headlamp to replace my stolen one. Continuing down the same road, we arrived and caught a bus from the central station to Tel Aviv, having spent only about 3 hours in what is probably considered one of the holiest cities in the world.

During our first visit to Israel in 2002, Eric and I had hiked a part of the Israel National Trail during our free travel, completing the northern section from Tiberias on the Sea of Galilee to Tel Dan near Mt. Hermon at the Syrian/Lebanon/Israel borders. From the countless adventures that imprinted many memorable stories in our minds, we knew that trekking the rest of this path was sure to lead to more of the same. This diverse trail is blazed in stripes of blue, orange, and white, symbolizing its path near the Mediterranean Sea in the west, the Negev desert in the south, and the snow of Mt. Hermon in the north. We decided to begin our hike in Eilat, a port town on the Red Sea, and work our way north to Mount Hermon, after 900 km of meandering through the countryside.

Countless internet searches pointed us to mainly one site in English, a trail journal of an Israeli named Maoz who had hiked its length recently and recorded daily details and some beautiful photos. I thought I would try to email him and see if he could help answer a few of my questions about logistical details, maps, etc...In his response I found out his incredible willingness to help us in whatever way possible. We decided to keep in touch over the next few months as the time grew closer for us both to return to Israel.

Maoz and his girlfriend Shlomit had been traveling throughout South America in basically the same route we did, only they were a few months ahead of us. Shlomit returned to Israel before Maoz to continue working while he stayed a few more months in New Zealand. Upon arriving to Israel, we were to connect with Shlomit, who lives near Tel Aviv, to talk about maps, route, and desert water sources. Unable to get a hold of her on the first day, we decided to head south down the coast to Ashkelon.

In April we will be leaving Israel with Linford and Janet Stutzman, helping to sail their boat through the Mediterranean where we will end on the Greek island of Samos and then head to Athens. Linford and Janet were the leaders of our Middle East cross-cultural in 2002 and are currently sailing Paul's missionary journeys during Linford's sabbatical from Eastern Mennonite University. They are currently living on their boat, Sailing Acts, in the Ashkelon marina until then, and we thought it would be nice to spend a little time with them before we hit the trail.

We quickly adjusted to the swaying motion of the cabin and started to catch up on each others' lives and travel stories, starting right up where we had last left off as we always do. Living on a boat is definitely a new experience for both of us, and I think it has only got us more excited about the month of sailing that we will do in April. And it is also such a blessing to have good friends that you can connect with when you are at such different parts of the world.

During our time on the boat, we also managed to reach Shlomit by telephone and made a trip up to her house to talk about trail details. Maoz will return home next week and hopefully will also be able to join us in hiking some of the trail. It's amazing how these connections continue to smooth out the details of our journey. Without the help of Maoz and Shlomit, we would definitely be struggling through the Hebrew maps, wasting time searching for water sources, and probably missing a lot of the trail's secrets.

Today we will hit the trail, loaded up with more water than I believe I have ever carried in my life. This backpacking trip will be the longest either of us has ever done, and we are excited to explore this land on foot, encountering it in through the most personal travel approach possible. We also eagerly anticipate the space and solitude of the wilderness and the energy that we both pull from these types of experiences. We are ready to begin walking.

Posted by Dave at February 11, 2005 01:39 AM



Comments

Hey! I'm so glad you could connect with Maoz and he could help you with the "many plans that must be maid." :) Happy trails!

Posted by: Anna at February 11, 2005 01:52 PM

Hey guys your trip sounds great. I hope you are having a lot of fun and are seeing a lot of great sights. I hope the rest of your trip goes well. Eric, don't forget to think about your favorite cousin! ;)

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